I was happy to have the opportunity to return to my annual birthday long weekend trip after a missed year.
I’ve become conscious of heat being a major factor in planning this trip so the choices for a simple weekender have become limited. I was curious to give Chicago another try after being mostly rained out on my last birthday visit there 3 years ago.
But landing in a middle of a heat dome and then having an Uber break down on the highway had me working very hard to be optimistic for the trip. But thankfully I was confident that my first night’s plans were going to be a lot of fun.
Before my trip, I found out a friend from Oaxaca was working in Chicago for the summer at Bar Sótano. Even though I rarely go for Mexican food outside of Mexico, I really wanted to say hello.
The first stop before dinner was at Bar Avec for a drink. The rooftop setting was a wonderful welcome back to the city and an easy way to settle into the trip.
I’d originally considered Bar Sótano just for a cocktail. Dinner there hadn’t really crossed my mind. These days I spend enough time in Mexico that I don’t necessarily gravitate toward Mexican restaurants when I travel elsewhere. But the chance to catch up with my friend from Oaxaca, who was working there for the summer, changed that.
It wasn’t until just before the meal that I realized Bar Sótano was part of Rick Bayless’ restaurant group. Bayless has been one of the most influential figures in introducing Americans to the breadth of regional Mexican cooking, with Chicago home to his restaurants for decades. His long relationship with Oaxaca made the connection to my friend even more fitting. I hadn’t eaten at one of his restaurants in more than fifteen years, back when my own journey into Mexico was just beginning, and returning now gave me a very different appreciation for what he has contributed.
In the end, though, it was the chance to see my friend that brought me to Bar Sótano, and I’m glad it did. The cocktails were excellent, the food vibrant and the service incredibly warm. For a couple of hours, tucked away in a basement bar in Chicago, it almost felt like I’d been transported back to Oaxaca.
The first day came to an end at Andy’s Jazz Club. Beyond food and cocktails, one of my favourite ways to experience a city is through its live music scene. There’s something special about spending an evening in a small jazz club. It was a fitting way to end my first night in Chicago.
My birthday morning started the best way, with a Lagree session where I moved my body and got a sweat. Feeling accomplished, so I could proceed with the indulgences in the rest of my day without guilt.
Because the city was experiencing a heat dome, I determined that indoor activities were the way to go. I’d never visited The Art Institute of Chicago, so it was the perfect way to spend the morning.
I booked my birthday lunch at Monteverde. It was a restaurant I’d added to my late on my list, so I was only able to secure a midday reservation. As it turned out, it was the perfect venue for my birthday lunch.
Located in the West Loop, Monteverde is James Beard Award winning chef Sarah Grueneberg’s acclaimed Italian restaurant. Handmade pasta is at the heart of a menu that draws on Italian tradition while allowing for a personal, modern approach.
The room was bright and bustling, with just enough sense of occasion to make it feel special. We ordered 2 pastas, the gnocchetti con pesto and lobster ravioli. Both were pretty much perfect, easily living up to the expectations I’d built up for Monteverde.
Pre-dinner drinks were at Bisous, a stylish French-inspired cocktail bar in Fulton Market. The intimate, dimly lit room channels Paris after dark, with a strong cocktail program. It was exactly the kind of place I like to settle into for a drink before dinner.
For my birthday dinner, I wasn’t looking for anything over the top like my birthday dinner at Alinea a few years earlier. This time, I wanted an old-school Chicago steakhouse experience. Bavette’s felt like the perfect choice as it’s intimate, classic, and deeply rooted in the city’s tradition of serious steak dining.
Reservations at Bavette’s are notoriously difficult to secure as they disappear within minutes of being released. When I managed to snag one for my birthday, it felt like a little pre-gift.
The atmosphere of Bavette’s was exactly what I wanted. It was energetic without being noisy, and unmistakably Chicago. I settled in with a classic bourbon Old-Fashioned before ordering the Chicago-cut ribeye, perfectly medium rare, with fries, corn and asparagus for the table. It was celebratory without being over the top and exactly the birthday dinner I’d hoped for.
The next day was centred around an afternoon game at Wrigley Field. After being rained out on my last attempt three years earlier, I was crossing my fingers history wouldn’t repeat itself. The heat dome had finally broken, but in its place came thunderstorms, and by early afternoon things weren’t looking particularly promising.
I lifted my spirits with a sandwich from J.P. Graziano, a neighbourhood Italian grocer and sandwich shop that has been around since the 1930s. Despite the steady stream of customers, everyone was greeted at the door and encouraged to take their time and ask questions. It was the kind of warm, old-school hospitality that immediately won me over and, more importantly, the sandwiches were incredible.
Eventually the rain let up and it was off to Wrigley to finally watch the Cubbies. I was thrilled just to be there, that is, until they were down 6–0 by the end of the third and 17–1 by the bottom of the seventh. At least the beer was cold, I got my Chicago dog.
Determined not to let the awful ball game dampen my spirits, we headed to Maxwells Trading for dinner. The restaurant had caught my attention for chef Erling Wu-Bower’s cooking, which pulls from his Chinese-American background, years spent in some of Chicago’s best kitchens, and flavours from around the world. It sounded like exactly the kind of menu I’m drawn to when I travel.
Housed in a cool old brick building on the edge of the Fulton Market district, the room was loud and lively, the food was delicious, and it was exactly the change of energy I needed after a very long afternoon at Wrigley.
The next day, Canada making the round of 16 in the World Cup changed our plans. I wanted to watch the game, but didn’t want to compromise on a meal to do it. Thankfully, I discovered that Zarella Pizzeria & Tavern, a spot I’d been dying to try, delivered. Pizza in bed with a bottle of sparkling wine while watching Canada play was the perfect solution. Canada may have lost, but at least the pizza didn’t disappoint.
I’d saved my most anticipated meal at Kumiko, for the final night, and it did not disappoint. The intimate Japanese-inspired cocktail bar and dining room from bartender Julia Momosé is known for its meticulous cocktails and equally thoughtful food. I’d visited before, but that experience had been much more focused on the cocktails. This time, I wanted to pair the drinks with a fabulous meal.
I can’t say enough about how wonderful the evening was. The service struck that perfect balance of polished and professional while still feeling genuinely warm and welcoming. I already knew the cocktails would be exceptional, but it was the food that surprised me most. The chicken karaage was (almost) as good as Mom’s, while the cold chawanmushi was something I’d never had before and absolutely loved. Every bite was delicious. It was one of those meals where everything just came together, and the perfect way to end the trip.
There was time for one last meal before the flight home, with brunch at The Publican. I’d long known about Publican Quality Bread, so I was happy to discover the restaurant behind it. A Chicago institution in Fulton Market, The Publican takes inspiration from European beer halls, with a menu built around seasonal, hearty cooking and, unsurprisingly, very good bread.
After several days of ambitious eating, I was perfectly happy to finish with my favourite kind of breakfast, a classic plate of eggs, bacon, potatoes and toast. Sometimes simple is exactly what I want, and it was a satisfying way to close out the weekend. It felt like the right final meal. It was familiar, generous and comforting, with just enough of what had made the trip so enjoyable, good food, a welcoming room and the pleasure of taking my time over one last plate before heading home.
Places I Visited on This Trip to Chicago:
- Bar Avec
- Bar Sótano
- Monteverde
- Biscous
- Bavette’s
- J.P. Graziano
- Maxwells Trading
- Zarella Pizzeria & Tavern
- Kumiko
- The Publican
My other Chicago posts to check out:
