Guadalajara has long been at the top of my list of cities in Mexico I’ve wanted to visit. Over the years, I’ve pinned countless restaurant and bar recommendations, eager to discover the flavours of Jalisco for myself. It was with great excitement when I finally booked a visit earlier this year.
As with most of my travels through Mexico, I was secretly hoping that one of my Mexican friends might join and help discover a side of the city I wouldn’t necessarily find on my own. Thankfully, a baseball game was enough to convince my friend Omar to make the trip from Oaxaca to spend a few days together.
Landing in the afternoon a day before Omar, we hit the ground running. It was warm and sunny in Guadalajara and mariscos seemed like the perfect choice for my first taste in the city. We headed to El Habanero Negro, where a margarita accompanied a selection of dishes. The shrimp aguachile came with a three-chile salsa macha, while a tuna tostada on crispy wonton brought together avocado, serrano and furikake. Alongside some guacamole, it was a delicious start to the trip.
That evening’s first stop was El Gallo Altanero, a cocktail bar I’d been particularly eager to visit. It ended up being my favourite cocktail spot of the trip, with exceptional drinks, including a standout Martini Vampirito, and genuinely warm hospitality that made the experience all the more memorable.
Not knowing what Omar might have planned over the coming days, I’d booked dinner at Alcalde, a Michelin-starred restaurant I’d been wanting to try. Chef Francisco Ruano combines traditional Jaliscan flavours with influences from his experience in some of the world’s leading kitchens. Rather than commit to a tasting menu, we chose a few dishes, including an umami-rich fish tostada, a requesón cheese gordita and pork crackling with coloradito mole.
The next morning, with time before Omar’s arrival, we explored Guadalajara’s historic centre before heading to Birriería Las 9 Esquinas for one of the city’s specialties. The charming, traditional restaurant was filled mostly with locals despite its popularity. My goat birria tacos with consommé were deeply flavourful, rich without being too heavy.
With a late dinner planned, I stopped at Romea, a charming little wine bar, for a glass of wine and a few bites in the late afternoon to tide me over.
After a rest, we made our way to Fandango, a tiny, narrow bar from the team behind El Gallo Altanero with a focus on martinis. It was the perfect choice for an excellent pre-dinner cocktail stop.
Omar had finally arrived in the city and we met up for dinner at Xokol.Being one of his favourite restaurants in Guadalajara, it was a fitting place to reunite.
Chefs Óscar Segundo and Xrysw Ruelas of Xokol celebrate Mexico’s culinary traditions through heirloom corn, indigenous ingredients and ancestral cooking techniques. The communal dining table encouraged conversation with neighbouring diners, while the open kitchen added to the lively atmosphere. The tasting menu was Omar’s preference even though I’ve largely moved away from lengthy multi-course meals. But the exceptional and creative dishes coupled with warm hospitality made for a memorable evening. Even if it was ultimately more food than I needed!
The following morning, Kika, a friend from Monterrey arrived in the city and we all head out for breakfast at Yunaites. Tucked inside Mercado IV Centenario, Chef Fabián Delgado’s focus on quality ingredients and careful preparation elevates the traditional market fonda experience while keeping it accessible to everyone. The food was humble and prepared with care. Each dish was packed with flavour and it was one of the standout meals of the trip.
After more city wandering we made our way to El Desconchadero de Caguamo, another discovery, tucked away in an open-air garage in the residential División del Norte neighbourhood. With no sign out front and a honk-to-enter setup, it had the feel of a relaxed backyard gathering, with smoke drifting from the open grill and tables filled with locals enjoying fresh, delicious mariscos. I loved that it was the kind of place I never would have found on my own, and exactly what I was hoped to be taken to by my “in the know” friends.
That evening we headed out to the baseball game, the reason we’d all come together in Guadalajara in the first place. Having experienced the atmosphere at games in Oaxaca and Tijuana, I’d expected something similarly lively, but Guadalajara didn’t quite deliver the same energy. The stadium food was also disappointing compared to what I’ve had elsewhere in Mexico. The experience left me appreciating the other Mexican ball games I’d attended before even more.
The night ended at Mecenas, an intriguing anti-brand bar where everything is made in-house and no commercial labels in sight. The space was dark and moody, but a DJ kept the atmosphere upbeat as the evening continued over cocktails and small bites.
Our final day began with another wander through Guadalajara’s streets, admiring the city’s beautiful architecture before heading to Pal Real, the restaurant that first put chef Fabián Delgado on Guadalajara’s culinary map. My roast beef bisquet was rich and indulgent, and the fried chicken sandwich was another standout. What started as lunch stretched into a leisurely afternoon over a few too many mimosas and I wished I had a bigger appetite to try more. With so many tempting dishes on the menu, it’s the top of my list for when I return to the city again.
Before heading back for a much-needed afternoon nap, I squeezed in one more drink at Farmacia Rita Pérez, a fun little modern cantina with just the right amount of dive-bar character.
My last dinner in Guadalajara was at Tikuun, a highly recommended restaurant where the food was well executed, though the quieter atmosphere lacked some of the energy I’d enjoyed elsewhere on the trip.
The night ended at De-La-O, a lively modern cantina with great drinks, snacks and a fun atmosphere. It was my one last chance to savour the company of Omar and Kika before saying goodbye.
Guadalajara lived up to my expectations, while making me realize just how much more there was to explore. I loved its big-city energy, but without the feeling of being overrun by international visitors that I’ve increasingly noticed in Mexico City. While I finally made it to many of the places on my ever-growing list, some of my favourite discoveries came courtesy of Omar who knew where to take me. And somehow, after four days of eating and drinking my way through Guadalajara, I managed to leave with an even longer list of places to try than when I arrived.
Where I Ate & Drank in Guadalajara
Restaurants & Food
- El Habanero Negro – Creative mariscos, excellent aguachile and tostadas.
- Alcalde – Michelin-starred contemporary Jaliscan cuisine.
- Birriería Las 9 Esquinas – Traditional goat birria with rich consommé.
- Xokol – Exceptional cooking rooted in Mexican culinary traditions.
- Yunaites – Outstanding market breakfast showcasing traditional Mexican cooking.
- El Desconchadero de Caguamo – Fresh mariscos in a hidden, no-frills neighbourhood garage.
- Pal Real – One of my favourite meals of the trip. Don’t miss the roast beef bisquet or fried chicken sandwich.
- Tikuun – Well-executed contemporary Mexican cuisine in a quieter setting.
Cocktails & Wine
- El Gallo Altanero – My favourite cocktail bar of the trip. Exceptional drinks and hospitality.
- Romea – Charming wine bar for a glass and a few small bites.
- Fandango – Tiny, intimate, martini-focused cocktail bar.
- Mecenas – Moody, anti-brand cocktail bar featuring house-made spirits and ingredients.
- Farmacia Rita Pérez – Fun modern cantina with a touch of dive-bar character.
- De-La-O – Lively modern cantina for cocktails and snacks.
For more from my trip, check out my Guadalajara IG Highlights.