New Mexico had never really been on my travel radar. But when the opportunity came up to plan a trip with my cousin Alex, I was happy to explore somewhere new. Alex lives in Nashville and is one of my favourite people in the world, so any excuse to spend time together is a good one. She suggested Albuquerque, a city I knew next to nothing about, but it was her idea to stay at Los Poblanos, a historic inn surrounded by lavender fields and cottonwood trees, that ultimately sold me.
Unfamiliar with what New Mexico had to offer, I started researching. What I learned was that New Mexican cuisine has its own identity, neither Mexican nor Tex-Mex, but shaped by Indigenous, Spanish and Mexican influences. I dove deep and before I knew it, I had a growing list of local dishes and specialties I was eager to try.
Flying into Albuquerque, I was struck by the vast, arid landscape and the dramatic Sandia Mountains rising along the edge of the city. It was a striking introduction to New Mexico and it immediately made me feel like I was far from home.
Driving down the tree-lined driveway of Los Poblanos, I knew we’d made a great choice. Set among 25 acres of lavender fields and farmland, the property is a beautiful mix of adobe architecture, shaded courtyards and towering cottonwood trees. I wandered the grounds taking it all in, wondering how I’d manage to tear myself away from the Inn to explore the city.
Once Alex arrived, we made our way to the Library Bar for a pre-dinner cocktail. The historic wood-panelled room, lined with bookshelves, was quiet and restrained, much like a library should be. Perhaps a little too subdued for our excitement at being together again, but a lovely space nonetheless.
Dinner that evening was at Campo, Los Poblanos’ farm-to-table restaurant, where seasonal ingredients take centre stage. A late-season tomato salad was a burst of colour and flavour, while the rich, succulent rib eye was a delicious reminder of just how good American beef can be. Between the beautiful surroundings, good food and the pleasure of catching up with Alex, I couldn’t have asked for a better start to our trip.
The next morning began with yoga in Los Poblanos’ yurt. Moving slowly after our peaceful start, breakfast turned into an early lunch at Duran Central Pharmacy, an Albuquerque institution that appeared on just about every must-eat list and came highly recommended by locals.
Tucked into the back of a working pharmacy is a diner that feels quintessentially American. We pulled up to the counter and ordered a stuffed sopapilla smothered in red chile and Paul’s Plate, a combination of enchilada, tamale and beans with green chile.
Ordering red or green chile is serious business in New Mexico. You can ask for “Christmas” to get a mix of both, but we wanted to try each on its own. Both dishes were packed with flavour, although I preferred the brighter, fresher taste of the green chile. The portions were hearty and filling, and as much as I enjoyed them, I could only manage a few bites of each.
Driving around Albuquerque, I couldn’t help but get Breaking Bad vibes. Before this trip, the show had been my only real reference point for the city, and between the sprawling streets, low-slung buildings and desert landscape, it all felt strangely familiar.
We wandered through Old Town before stopping for a coffee, which somehow turned into a beer next door at Sidetrack Brewing Co. We’d planned to go for a hike that afternoon, but true to the brewery’s name, we got thoroughly sidetracked. The hike never happened, but we left with a handful of great recommendations from the bartenders, which seemed like a pretty good trade-off.
We weren’t particularly hungry, but I wasn’t about to leave Albuquerque without trying El Modelo, another local institution that looked as though little had changed over the decades. We squeezed in a tamale and a sopapilla drizzled with honey.
I’m glad we made the effort. The tamale was one of the best bites of the trip, with fluffy, moist masa surrounding tender pork in a rich red chile sauce that delivered just enough heat without overwhelming the other flavours.
I’d done plenty of research before arriving, but the conversations with locals helped shape where we actually ended up drinking. After a little downtime at Los Poblanos, we followed those recommendations to Still Spirits. The cocktails were well made, and the relaxed, comfortably local atmosphere made it an easy place to settle in before our next meal.
Dinner was at the iconic Monte Carlo Liquor & Steak House, tucked behind an old-school liquor store. Walking through the doors felt like stepping straight into the 1970s, with wood-panelled walls, leather banquettes and an atmosphere that seemed wonderfully untouched by time.
We’d come for the green chile cheeseburger, cooked medium rare, something I can’t order back home in Canada. The green chiles packed a serious punch. My mouth kept telling me I’d had enough heat, but I couldn’t resist going back for “just one more” delicious bite.
After dinner, we wandered into the adjoining liquor store and ended up chatting with the owners, who entertained us with stories of the place’s glory days and even sent us off with T-shirts. It was one of those spontaneous encounters I seem to find myself in when I travel, and exactly the kind of experience I love most.
Back at Los Poblanos, we finished the evening with an Old Fashioned at Campo Bar. With good bourbon hard to come by back home these days, I took every opportunity to enjoy it while I could.
The following day we headed north to explore Santa Fe, a city that deserves a story of its own. And is soon to follow…
My final morning at Los Poblanos began with a massage at the spa, a little self-care after several days of indulgence. With a full day ahead before my flight home, I’d planned to check out more Albuquerque institutions from my list. But after the spa, the thought of another heavy New Mexican meal had lost its appeal. Instead, I settled onto Campo’s patio for one last farm-to-table lunch, wishing I didn’t have to leave.
Eventually, I managed to tear myself away from Los Poblanos and headed to Level 5 at Hotel Chaco, a rooftop bar recommended by several locals for its views of the Sandia Mountains. As the sun dipped in the opposite direction, the mountains took on beautiful shades of pink, making it easy to understand why so many had suggested the stop.
Before my final food stop, I managed to track down the somewhat elusive tucked-away tiki spot, Daydream Rum Bar. It took a little searching to find, but I was rewarded with a well-made Mai-Tai.
My final food stop was Mesa Provisions, where I’d been looking forward to trying the pork adobada dumplings I’d spotted on their menu. Unfortunately, they’d recently been taken off, so I settled on the green chile cheeseburger instead. It was good, but after the one at Monte Carlo, the bar had been set pretty high, and this one didn’t quite measure up.
Albuquerque wasn’t a city I’d ever imagined visiting, but I’m glad Alex suggested it. Between the beautiful setting of Los Poblanos, discovering New Mexican food and the unexpected encounters along the way, there was plenty to enjoy. We didn’t manage everything we’d planned, but we had a wonderful time together, which was really the point of the trip all along.
Where I Ate & Drank in Albuquerque
Restaurants & Cafés
- Campo at Los Poblanos – Farm-to-table dining, excellent cocktails and a beautiful setting.
- Duran Central Pharmacy – Classic New Mexican comfort food with red and green chile.
- El Modelo – Old-school Albuquerque institution serving excellent tamales.
- Monte Carlo Liquor & Steak House – Retro steakhouse with a standout green chile cheeseburger.
- Mesa Provisions – Contemporary American cooking with New Mexican influences.
Bars & Breweries
- Los Poblanos Library Bar – Historic, wood-panelled bar with a quiet atmosphere.
- Sidetrack Brewing Co – Relaxed local brewery with friendly bartenders.
- Still Spirits – Well-made cocktails in a laid-back setting.
- Level 5 at Hotel Chaco – Rooftop bar with beautiful views of the Sandia Mountains.
- Daydream Rum Bar – Tucked-away cocktail bar known for its Mai Tais.