Spending time exploring Tijuana is a hard sell to most. Known as one of the most violent cities in the world, a quick google search would prevent most from visiting. For others, they can’t get over the stereotype of Tijuana from childhood memories, (or the Simpson’s Happiest Place on Earth episode), of the place to crossover from San Diego for the day to party and buy trinkets and trash (probably made in China).
Thankfully my first visit to Tijuana (as an adult) in 2018 was with Mexican friends who helped me navigate crossing the border and introduced me to the incredible flavours of North Baja.
I revisited Tijuana 2 more times within a short span to continue to explore the exciting food and drink scene where so many young, talented Tijuanese are opening businesses. I had a 4th visit planned but then the pandemic happened and delayed my return.
I’ve had many discussions with friends on the ease of crossing from San Diego to Tijuana and that from there, a short 1 1/2 hr drive later, you can be sitting pretty, sipping wine in the magical Valle de Guadalupe. While some have since made the trek into wine country, a stop in Tijuana continues to be a hard sell.
I finally had the opportunity to plan a return to Valle de Guadalupe and a night in Tijuana was a must on my itinerary. Thankfully the 2 1/2 hour flight from Vancouver lands in San Diego just after noon and with everything on schedule, an hour later I was crossing over the San Ysidro border into Tijuana, just in time for lunch.
I had no doubt that my first stop to eat in Tijuana would be at La Carmelita. I’d met Jose Figueroa (Joe), the Chef/Owner in Oaxaca last year. I realized I’d visited his food truck a couple of times in Telefonica Park years ago to have a killer chilaquiles. In Oaxaca we were at a party where he made a nopales salad. It was one of the best salads I’ve had in my life. I kept in touch and was very excited to follow along with the opening of his brick and mortar La Carmelita. I was even more excited to try more of his food.
I knew there couldn’t be any delays to get from the airport to La Carmelita for a late lunch before they closed on Sunday. Thankfully my scheduling ran on time and I confidently walked over the border, found an Uber and I arrived in time and overjoyed to have my first meal in Tijuana. La Carmelita Molino y Cocina was bustling busy but we were able to find a seat quickly. I saw Joe right away and shared my happiness to be in his restaurant that I know took a lot of work to build.
Everything on the menu looked great so I asked Joe to choose, requesting dishes that leant more towards lunch than breakfast. First to hit the table was the most wonderful roasted cauliflower taco with mole. The portion was huge but I couldn’t stop eating it. The mole was rich, complex and delicious and I loved the addition of almonds and sesame seeds for texture. Next was a jurel (yellowfin) tostada and a pescado & camaron ceviche. I wished I had come with 4 more people so I could have shared in these (and more) dishes because everything was incredible.
When I planned TIjuana, I asked my friends who’d recently been there for suggestions of new places to check out. The one name that kept popping up as a “must” was Aruba Day Drink Bar., named 40 on 2023’s 50 Best Bars in North America. While I’d already marked it as my TJ cocktail stop, it was great to have my choice validated by so many others.
On the day I was visiting, Eric Van Beek from Handshake Bar in CDMX was guest shifting at Aruba. I love his cocktails. so it was an added bonus. Arriving early evening on a Sunday, the bar was packed, signalling to me it’s not just a day drink spot as the name suggests. While I wish I was able to get a seat at the bar, I was seated close enough to check out the action. I loved the vibrant airy space and youthful energy of Aruba Day Drink Bar and both cocktails I ordered, (one from Eric and the other from Kevin Tocino, Aruba’s lead bartender) were wonderful sippers for a warm evening.
On each of my 3 previous visits, I’ve had Tijuana’s iconic Caesar’s on my list. Caesar’s is where the salad was invented in 1927, on my list. I’ve had (and loved) many tableside renditions of this salad before, and I was curious to try it in its original home. Knowing that it’s now part of the Placencia group (of Javier Placencia, the father of Baja cuisine) and that he’s gone to painstaking ordeal to try to bring the salad back to it’s most authntic flavours, on this visit I had to go.
The Placencia group has done agood job of bringing the sprit of Caesar’s back and giving diners a great feel of old school TIjuana. .
Of course I ordered the tableside Caesar (wiht a steak tartare & a side of fries). I was a bit freaked out upon service of the salad because the leaves looked totally overdressed. But the dressing was rich, flavourful and balanced without being overpowering. It was definitely one of the best Caesar salad’s I’ve ever eaten.
The next morning my thoughts had quickly turned from TJ south to my next destination, the Valle de Guadalupe. But before leaving, there were still a couple stops I needed to make.
I knew my days in the Valle would be filled with seafood, so I wanted to have a quick street meat eat before heading out of town. I’d read the L.A. Taco guide on where to eat in Tijuana and Birria de Borrego seemed like the perfect stop. Their location close to the Playas was the way out of town and once I heard about their lamb birria, I knew it was exactly the meat treat I was craving. Pefectly satiated, I was ready to head down to the Valle for days of R&R.
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Heading back north after 4 days in the Valle, I wanted to make one last stop before heading back north of the border. Not feeling like I’d had enough mariscos on the trip, a quick stop at El Mariscos El Conchal del Paísa was my choice for a couple tostadas to tide me over.
Feeling, a bit out of sorts with my luggage in tow, I didn’t have proper time to digest their offerings. I’d been told specifically to order the scallop and crab tostadas. Unfortunately they didn’t have scallop, so I went with camarones, their recommendation. It was completely over-sauced, but I think this was just a miscommunication. As a total juxtoposition and more. to my liking was the crab tostada, which I salsa’d to taste. To finish, I slurped back a chocolate clam dressed simply with lime. The fresh taste was the perfect last bite to end my time in Tijuana and made me excited to return for another visit hopefully sometime soon!
The Places I Visited in Tijuana
Call Me a Food Lover... 