I had the opportunity to travel to London for a week and found myself with a of couple free days at the start of my trip. While I knew I’d have no problem filling my days with wonderful if I just stayed put in London, I had an itch for a supplementary adventure to somewhere new. I pulled out a map to try to decide on a viable option and I found one made the most sense. Brussels, a quick 2 hr trip on the Eurostar train seemed the perfect size for me to explore in 24 hours.
I made my way to Pancras Station early in the morning, questioning if I’d made the right decision. I was jet lagged from arriving the afternoon before and my body was wishing it were still in bed. To top it off, I was fighting a lingering cold and not quite travel-ready as I boarded the train. My hope was to sleep on the train, but of course I was too busy with watching out the window and planning my day to get a few minutes of shut eye. But with only a short time to do what I wanted, I knew I needed to push through.
Arriving in Brussels, I decided to walk from the station towards my hotel to maximize my time wandering the city. This turned out to be the best idea as I was quickly enamoured by the look and feel of the Brussels. I felt my energy building as I soaked in the beautiful architecture every block.
I had points of interest marked on my map and of course, a list of foods and drinks I wanted to try. My list was ambitious and I wasn’t sure how much I’d be able to accomplish in 24 hours, but I was IN and knew I was going to do my darnedest in trying.
My first stop was for lunch at Noordeez to satiate my seafood fix. I love to sample oysters where ever I go. Unfortunately, they only had French, not Belgian, but I loved their delicate flavour and texture that’s so different than anything I get close to home. The other “musts” were the shrimp croquettes which were creamy and rich and my favourite of the meal, simply grilled razor clams with olive oil and herbs.
One of the things that drew me to Brussels was their strong street art scene. Because I was short on time, I focused my exploration on one area, but loved all the whimsical pieces I saw.
After my day of wandering the city, I had hit the wall and was hoping to have a long mid-afternoon nap. I have veered off beer the past few years but knew I had to imbibe in a few in Belgium. I wandered in to the cute and cozy Family Brews for a strong half pint to help me put me into a much needed dream state to re-charge..
Potatoes are one of my top 5 faovurite foods, and in their fried version they may even sit higher. One of the reasons I chose to visit Brussels was to sample their frites. I had this image in my mind of walking around the city munching on a cone of frites. Unfortunately image this was squelched due to a rainy evening when I visited Fritkot Chouke and then even further dispelled when I was upsold on a “royale” with curry ketchup, grilled and crispy onions. While I didn’t need all the extras, the fries which sat underneath that I ate with a bit of mayo were as incredible as I imagined they’d be.
My research of cocktail bars in Brussels resulted in only 1 that I wanted to visit. But with so little time in the city it meant I didn’t have to compromise on a choice. Life is Beautiful is small with a great neighbourhood vibe and I felt comfortable as soon as I walked in. I did find it difficult to choose something to my liking from their menu, but given the dark gloomy night I went with their Ganesh an Indian flavour inspired Negroni which was complex, a bit confounding but a good slow sipper. I chatted with some locals at the bar and was left with a list of suggestions to try for my next visit because for dinner that evening, I had to sample one more Brussels specialty.
Cafe Walvis was recommended by the bartender at Life is Beautiful for its proximity and good food, including their moules frites. I was visiting at the tail-end of local mussels season which meant that my mussels were small, but still flavourful. I loved the coconut curry sauce my mussels were bathed in as it made for a great dipper for the perfectly crispy / creamy fries served on the side.
The rain made it difficult to get an Uber back to my hotel, so I used it as an excuse to visit the Brussels Beer Project which just happened to be across the street. The detour gave time for the weather to clear, so I was able to wander back through the lovely streets of the city.
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I woke up the next morning with aromas of buttery baked goodness and went to discover the source. While I thought I’d find a French patisserie, I was delighted to learn that what drew me in was Maison Dandoy, specializing in waffles. I didn’t think in my short visit I’d have time to sample a waffle, but there is was being presented to me. I chose the lighter crisp Brussels waffle over the denser, sweeter Liege thinking it would be more my thing. I was right, it reminded me of an Eggo waffle in the best sense of comparison.
I had some time before lunch so I made my way up to the museum area in town, which was also close to where I was eating. I wandered through the Royal Museum of Fine Arts and was completely drawn to the Magritte Museum where I spent most of my time.
When I booked Brussels, I started looking into their fine dining scene, specifically for Belgian cuisine. While there were many options, most weren’t open early in the week (when I was there) or for lunch. I was happy to find Bozar, a 2* Michelin restaurant featuring new Belgian cuisine.
Bozar’s 3 course lunch priced at €90 is such a “steal” considering you’re served 3 amuse bouches and the most delightful laminated brioche even before you start with your courses. My favourites of the day was the jambon persille, a pressed pork terrine disguised under a whimsical green leaf. The puff of smoked eel on top of potatoes was another whimsical dish, while the coucou (a Belgian Malines chicken), stuffed with mushrooms and artichokes, was both light and hearty at the same time.
Lunch at Bozar ran very long, over 2 1/2 hours, which I never would have guessed it to be for a “3 course meal”. I got to the point where I rushed them through the last course and even asked to forgo dessert because I had a train to catch back to London. Unfortunately,.they felt I needed to try their (sublime) apple tart which resulted in me missing my train by moments. This put a damper on the moment, but reflecting back to the meal without the sense of panic I felt for the last few courses, I can say it was (almost) worth missing my train for,
Sitting at the train station waiting patiently for the next train to London, I was happy with all I was able to see and taste in the city in 24 hours. I was grateful for the opportunity for adventure, but anticipating the next week I had ahead in London!
Places I Visited in Brussels
Call Me a Food Lover... 