The Michelin Guide has come to Mexico and this time, rather than it being a city guide, it was specific states that extended the invitation (paid the money). The Michelin Guide ceremony for Mexico had taken place just before my last visit and everywhere I went, the conversation revolved around Michelin’s ratings; who received stars, who should have, and those who weren’t even mentioned.
The world of Michelin ratings have been always been controversial. This is more so the case in new markets where cities are paying great sums of money to take part. But, with what must be a limited number of inspectors in relation to the scope of the industry in each particular location, it’s no doubt that “they’re” going to have some misses. Or in my twisted point of view, Michelin intentionally leaves some much deserving restaurants off their list in a newly launched location only to encourage conversation, thus keeping its name on people’s minds.
In my conversations with friends in Mexico, I’ve related how Vancouver, only 2 years into the Michelin game went through the same feeling (and debates) after its 1st awards. How a food community was left in disbelief at who was mentioned but more, those deserving who were not. In Vancouver’s 2nd year, there were more additions, but still notably missing were some of Vancouver’s classic establishments which are equal or greater than in quality as some others who made the list.
In 2024, Oaxaca received 2 x 1* ratings, 6 x Bib Gourmands, and 8 others who were mentioned in Mexico’s inaugural Michelin Guide. While the discussion of the “Michelin effect” ran strong in my recent trip to Mexico City, it seemed to be even more impactful in Oaxaca. In a relatively small city, where most visitors come for only a few days, being named on the list is going to give these businesses huge boost.
I’d been to all but 2 restaurants in Oaxaca on the list, so I made it a priority to visit these 2 on my last visit to Oaxaca. I also made it a point to revisit others. Here’s my take on the restaurants mentioned in the Michelin Guide:
Levadura de Olla – 1* Michelin – Chef Thalia Barrios Garcia’s cooking is re-energizing and redefining Oaxacan cuisine. If you just glance over the menu, it looks like a roster of traditional Oaxacan classics, but if you take a more careful look, you’ll see many special ingredients and techniques included throughout. Thalia’s cooking is deeply rooted from her hometown of San Mateo Yucutindoo, a remote village in the southern mountains of Oaxaca. From my experience here and at her more intimate Cocina de Humo, I’ve learned she can coax flavour from “just vegetables” in a way that I usually choose her vegan dishes. And on a hot day, her agua de maiz (corn water) is a surprisingly refreshing beverage that is a perfectly simple representation of Oaxaca.
Chef Thalia was also awarded with Michelin’s Young Chef award. At 28 yrs old, it’s incredible to taste the experience in flavours that Chef Thalia presents in her food. I’m excited to see what’s to come for her.
Los Danzantes – 1* Michelin + Green * – Los Danzantes has been around for over 20 years, well before Oaxaca became the food destination it is today. Back when I started regularly visiting Oaxaca over 15 years years ago, Los Danzantes (along with Casa Oaxaca) was where I’d come for a nice dinner out. I’d marvel in their open courtyard space, so magical day or night, as they served tasty Oaxacan dishes, not believing something so lovely existed in Oaxaca. Over the years, as the food scene has developed, its fallen off my radar of top priority to visit, but I know it’s certainly popular, with Mexicans from Puebla / CDMX who come into town for the weekend. I’m due for a revisit soon.
Alfonsina – Bib -Gourmand – Visiting Alfonsina is like being invited into someone’s home for a meal, and in truth, that’s exactly what you’re getting in this magical restaurant within the family home of Chef Jorge Leon. I’m spoiled in that I’m taken by Omar (Oaxacking) every time I’m in Oaxaca to delight in whatever Tia Elvia has cooked up that day. In their new format, where Tia Elvia rules the day and Chef Jorge takes over at night, I haven’t had the opportunity to eat dinner. But knowing what I know of Chef Jorge, I need to prioritize going for dinner the next time I visit.
Cobarde – Bib -Gourmand – I went into Cobarde with a very skeptical mind. I’d heard “using Mexican ingredients to present dishes with global flavours, not experienced anywhere else in Oaxaca” and I equated inauthentic. I enjoyed my meal, with flavours that were pleasant and surprising. I hate using the term “fusion” to describe a cuisine, but in a menu that includes naan, gnudi and pho, this is what it was. Cobarde isn’t somewhere I’d recommend for a meal if you were coming to Oaxaca for the first time and only spending a few days. But if you’re looking to experience something in the next layer of Oaxaca dining, it’s worth a visit. Their killer view of the Santo Domingo, makes it a perfect place to grab a late afternoon drink.
Labo Fermento – Bib -Gourmand – I’ve known about Labo Frermento for a few years, but haven’t gotten around to visiting. Focused on fermentation from kimchi to shoyu and miso, their menu runs Asian. I’ve wondered if the concept was gimmicky and didn’t know how it would be in delivery. I’m also particular when eating Asian and am rarely satisfied unless served the proper balance of flavours. I’ve known of Chef Joseph Gilbert for years from El Destilado, where the food is very good, so I went in with an open mind. I visited on a day where I was craving Asian flavours and what I tried was delicious. I’ll definitely be back on my extended visits to Oaxaca.
La Olla – Bib -Gourmand – One of the old darlings of Oaxaca, I was a bit surprised to see that La Olla had received a Bib Gourmand, (while other Oaxacan institutions lacked to get a mention). Chef Pilar Cabrera is one of the founders to put Oaxacan cuisine on the map and a strong female role model for other chefs to follow. The menu is traditional, flavours solid and very reasonably priced. It’s where I go for lunch when I’m craving Oaxaca comfort, usually in the form of a sopa de tortilla in an environment that’s unfussy.
Tierra del Sol – Bib -Gourmand – Overlooking the Santo Domingo, Tierra del Sol is a lovely choice, where you can dine on a pretty terrace day or night. Like La Olla above, Tierra del Sol is where I go for Oaxacan comfort dishes, but when I’m looking for a buzzier atmosphere. I’ve enjoyed Tierra del Sol since I visited in their original location in Lila Downs’ home in San Francisco Tutla just on the outskirts of Oaxaca 6 years ago, especially for their table side salsa preparation. It’s a great place to go to taste one of the many moles of Oaxaca.
Zandunga – Mention – I am not a huge fan of Isthmus cuisine, as I think the flavours of moles and estofados of the region are often too sweet for my palate. But I do love a good garnacha, of which Zandunga’s are great. I also love their minnila, a chopped fish but no one else I know likes it as much as I do. Their large courtyard space is wonderful.
Casa Oaxaca – Mention – I credit Chef Alejandro’s Casa Oaxaca at helping define fine dining in Oaxaca over 20 years ago. My first visit 15 years ago, is part of the reason why I fell in love with the food in Oaxaca. The time I spent with the chef back in those early days are part of the reason why I’m connected to the city today. I’ve been back a few times since then, and the menu still represents (old) modern Oaxacan cooking on one of the most beautiful terraces, overlooking the Santo Domingo.
Criollo – Mention – Chef Enrique Olvera’s love letter to Oaxaca, overseen by Chef Luis Arellano and housed in one of Oaxaca’s most beautifully designed outdoor spaces. I’ve eaten a few incredible tasting menus at Criollo over the years, but recently have just visited for weekend brunch or the ending of Oaxacking’s food tours. Every visit to Criollo is magical and you’re treated to some of the best flavours Oaxaca has to offer.
Asador Bacanora – Mention – Venture outside of Centro into the “trendy” area of Jalatlaco to find Asadora Bacanora. You’ll dine in a lovely courtyard under a canopy of trees and delight in delicious eats. I’ve know Chef Jose Manuel Banos’ from Pitiona, one of first generation of restaurants presenting modern Oaxacan cooking, but Asadora’s menu felt more hearty. On my first (only) visit, I ordered more fish/vegetables and not the grilled meats they’re known for, but the food was solid. I will definitely be back to discover more of their menu.
Crudo – Mention – A huge caveat… I am a huge Japanese food snob and went into Crudo with great uncertainty 2 years ago. Chef Ricardo Arellano uses Oaxacan ingredients to deliver his interpretation of Japanese flavours, but was also quick to tell me he’d never been to Japan. The ingredients are incredible and the preparations are very creative. My mind was absolutely blown with his fermented black bean “soy” sauce and I loved the fish he was sourcing. The faults I’ve experienced probably have less to do with the food, but rather than my expectations. So. I need to go back to Crudo. With their expanded space, I’ve heard nothing but good things from friends who have encouraged me to give it a another chance, which I will with a much more open mind.
Itanoni – Mention – When Oaxaca was being put on the culinary map over 10 years ago, Itanoni was a fixture. It’s a place thats honoured and celebrated indigenous corn species, prepared as memelas, tetelas, quesadillas (et al) on the comal for all to see. If was in the area, I’d come for a simple breakfast with one of Oaxaca’s traditional beverages. Many restaurants have followed, paying the same homage to corn in locations much more convenient than Itanoni in Reforma, but it’s still worth a visit.
There were 3 other restaurants in this year’s Michelin Guide for Oaxaca, La Quince Letras (Bib), Ancetral, Teocintle Taka’aya (Mentions). I’ve been to all, but due to differing circumstances, I’m not comfortable offering my thoughts on them. All are on my radar to try again though. But then again, while I know what’s listed above are listed in Michelin’s Guide to Oaxaca for 2024, I believe there are a few very delicious places equal to, and perhaps greater than these. I guess it’s time for me to share my opinion of my favorites in Oaxaca soon.
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Thanks for the comprehensive guide! Refreshing in a world of AI summaries.