I didn’t grow up in Osaka, but the way I eat here, you’d think I did.
My parents grew up in Osaka (Kansai region) and it’s the city I’ve returned to more than any other in Japan. Over the years, my visits have always been short. Mostly time spent with family with just enough time to scratch the surface. I always leave full, but feeling like I missed something.
This time was different. With over a week here as a home base, I wasn’t chasing anything new. I was here to eat all the things I already knew I loved. The kind of meals that feel familiar the moment I sit down.
People always ask me where I eat when I’m in Japan. But much of what I’m eating isn’t about where, it’s about what. The dishes I come back for every time.
The Osaka ones: the food that is tied to this city
Okonomiyaki: A mix of cabbage, batter, and whatever you’re in the mood for, cooked on the grill until crisp at the edges and soft inside. What people know as okonomiyaki outside of Japan is nothing like this.
I’ve been going to Tsuruhashi Fugetsu since I was tiny. At this point it’s not about finding better, this is the only okonomiyaki I want when I’m in town. The way they mix the ingredients, whipping air into the batter gives this specific okonomiyaki the lightness and fluffiness I always crave. A side of yakisoba and their “pu-chi” weiners is always a must.
Akashiyaki : Often mistaken for takoyaki, but entirely its own thing. From nearby Akashi, these are softer, and almost custardy. They’re made with a higher egg-to-flour ratio with octopus inside. Instead of sauce, you dip them into a light, fragrant dashi that’s delicate, and comforting. I’m Team Akashiyaki which is why you won’t find takoyaki on this list.
At Bubutei, the akashiyaki arrives barely holding their shape and trembling in the best way. Gentler and more delicate than takoyaki, it’s the kind of dish you eat without distraction.
Kushikatsu: Golden crunchy skewers of meat, seafood, and vegetables fried to perfection. Dipped once (never twice) into a signature sauce. Eaten properly, it’s fast, casual and a little chaotic. A lot like Osaka itself.
I don’t have a favorite place for this, I just stop at wherever there’s a crowd of locals eating deliciously.
Butaman: These fluffy steamed buns filled with juicy pork and onion have been a family favorite since my mom was a child. You smell them before you see them, so you have to be mindful of when you’re going to eat them.
With my family it has to be 551 Horai. They’re warm, slightly sweet, and exactly what I want every time I pass by in the signature bright red box.
Udon: Osaka udon is soft and pillowy, a contrast to the chewy Sanuki-style. For my family, a stop at Mimiu is always a must.
The noodles are light, and delicate, and exactly the kind of meal that resets all the other heavier indulgences. I usually choose the kitsune or tempura udon, with tempura being my favorite. This year I was surprised with a family dinner there with udon hotpot which was a revelatory delight.
Hanshin Tigers game at Koshien Stadium: Getting tickets to see the Hanshin Tigers is almost a sport in itself, but it’s something any sports lover should do. The fan experience is on another level. From the coordinated player chants to the 7th inning stretch balloon release, the energy never dips. And the food? Easily the best ballpark food I’ve had anywhere. Add in $6 draft beers poured straight from the backs of the beer girls, and it’s an experience you don’t forget.
The things I’m always seeking during my trips to Japan, even if they aren’t uniquely Osaka
Sushi: Nigiri served piece by piece, the rice just warm, the rhythm steady and unfussy. This is the sushi I crave when I’m in Osaka.
Tokyo is where I go for high end sushi but in Osaka, I like things more simply. My sushi cravings are met at Endo Sushi at the Osaka Central Wholesale Market. I go on a Wednesday when the market is closed so the restaurant isn’t as busy. Sushi Endo is less about ceremony and more about flow. In 30 minutes you’ll have found yourself having eaten a hearty breakfast with the energy to push you through the day.
Sumibi yakitori: Chicken grilled over charcoal, each skewer simple but exact. Salt or tare, nothing more. You can get yakitori almost everywhere, but it has to be sumibi. Served one by one and meant to be eaten immediately. For a treat, I’ll go for a higher end yakitori cooked over bintochan charcoal, but that’s usually an experience meal (and 4 times more expensive) saved for more special occasions.
Yakiniku: Thin slices of beautifully marbled Wagyu beef, quickly grilled and eaten in small, perfect bites. This is my favorite meal in Japan and one I can eat several times during my trips. The different cuts of meat are indulgent without ever feeling heavy, so you always end up eating too much. Each region has its own brand and use that as an excuse to eat it at every stop.
Our regular in Osaka is Matsusaka M Fukushima Branch. The restaurant is easily reservable and ordering is easy.
This trip, my uncle took us to his hole in the wall yakiniku restaurant. Cooked over sumibi (rather than gas at most places), the meal was a smoky experience. My uncle ordered more horumon (offal), including raw beef liver- illegal to serve in Japan. This was a bit more adventurous than the rest of my family would have liked, but I loved the experience.
Tofu kaiseki: tofu is more of a Kyoto thing, but I’ve been going to Umenohana with my family in Osaka. It’s probably not something most would put high on their food itinerary, but I think it’s a meal very unique to being in Japan. Simple, seasonal and quietly satisfying without being heavy.
Depachika dinners: After days of eating out I live for these meals. I love wandering the department store basements finding beautiful salads, sashimi and everything fried. Even better when you go into the evening as they mark everything down 30%. Elbows up and grabbing whatever looks best that night. Taking it home and turning it into a quiet, choose-your-own feast.
AND: Of course there’s also the fast food places like Mos Burger and the newly rebranded Zetteria (formerly Loteria) for an ebi burger and all the konbini finds. But those are unavoidable and to personal preferences.
For my time in Osaka, it’s not about chasing reservations. I’m not seeking stars or following recommendations. I’m not trying to find “the best” because I know whatever I’m eating off my list is going to be incredible. My mission every time I return is to eat as many of the things I know I will crave after I leave.
With over a week in Osaka this past visit, I was successful in having every single one of my cravings and I’m leaving super satisfied but already longing to return.
Call Me a Food Lover... 