Settling into Oaxaca with Tlayudas

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Landing in Oaxaca one day late, I feel like I’m already behind. Actually not really as I’m trying not to be on a fixed schedule while I’m here. I’m trying to be untypically Susy, and just slow down.

After being picked up at the airport by Tomas and Henry, and dropped off at Casa Murgia, my home for the next 8 days, I quickly settled in to a glass of mezcal and some of my favorite Oaxacan peanut mix with chiles, fried garlic and salt.

It was dark and rainy by the time we were going to meet the rest of the gang for dinner, but the rain couldn’t dampen my spirits and excitement of being in Oaxaca again.

Henry and I made our way to the restaurant and I was excited to not only keep up with my tradition of having a tlayuda on my first night in Oaxaca, but also have the chance to try someplace new.

Cenaduria Al Ajo is a cute family operation and the orders were placed and hitting the table as Henry and I arrived. Everyone around the table had the same thing, tlayudas with the house special costillas.

"Cenaduria Al Ajo Oaxaca tlayuda costilla"
Tlayuda with Costilla marinada, especialidad de la casa (house special marinated ribs).

Tlayudas are a toasted tortilla, with asiento (pork fat), refried black beans, lettuce and cheese generally folded over and topped with a meat of your choice. This was the best tlayuda I’ve ever had and the ribs were perfectly cooked,  crispy, salty and delicious. I know that tlayudas are considered a late night snack, but for me, it’s my Oaxacan comfort food.

Sipping on my bottle of Sidral (my favourite apple pop), I was amazed at how quickly I settled into being in Oaxaca. It’s not only because it’s my 4th time here, but mostly that I’m surrounded by family. Not just mine, but the Oaxacan families eating and running the restaurant.


Sharing the secrets of what makes her family's tlayudas the best.
Sharing the secrets of what makes her family’s tlayudas the best.



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