Penang is a city that has lingered with me long after my first visit in 2017. It made such a strong impression that I found myself comparing it to my beloved Oaxaca. From the preservation of its historic core to its deeply rooted food identity, it felt like a place where vibrant flavours lived in ritual.
What struck me then, much like Oaxaca a few years earlier, was that Penang sat in a subtle moment just before a place tips. Traditions were firmly intact, but a younger generation was beginning to reinterpret them. Thoughtful, design-forward eateries, cocktail bars and coffee shops were opening, grounded in respect for heritage while quietly pushing flavour and technique forward.
Eight years later, I returned curious to see whether Penang’s evolution echoed that of Oaxaca.
On this visit, I wanted to rediscover the hawker stalls I’d loved, observe how the city had changed, and revisit that comparison with Oaxaca to see whether it still held up.
We arrived in Penang and checked into a condo outside the historic core, assuming the extra space and quiet would be welcome. It didn’t take long for the city to prove otherwise.
On our first night, we headed into central George Town for a drink at Kool Kongsi Music Bar. With a beautifully crafted umami-forward cocktail in hand, records spinning and a room that encouraged lingering, it was immediately clear this was the kind of place best enjoyed without an exit plan. Dinner, however, was calling.
We walked through the streets to Thara for a Thai dinner. After 10 days through Singapore and southern Malaysia, I was craving a change in flavours that would be familiar but hopefully better than anything I’d get outside of Thailand. Thankfully the meal hit all the sweet spots.
Walking back through George Town afterwards, the realization landed quickly: everything I loved about Penang was happening in the heart of the city. By the end of the night, it was clear, to enjoy Penang properly, we needed to be closer to the action.
Thankfully, our Airbnb was cancellable. We pivoted and booked the Muntri Grove Hotel, tucked along one of George Town’s quieter heritage streets. Only after arriving did I realize it was a sister property to Seven Terraces, the hotel I’d stayed in, and loved, on my first visit. It felt like a quiet full-circle moment.
Almost immediately, the rhythm shifted. We were steps from easy eats, markets, hawker stalls, and evening drinks. Penang opened itself back up.
After an early check-in, we headed straight to Penang Road Famous Laksa, settling into the rainy afternoon with asam laksa, char kway teow, and an oyster pancake.
Asam laksa was a style I’ve been curious to revisit, but my bowl confirmed what I’d felt before. With its sharp, fermented tang and assertive fishiness, asam laksa remains my least favourite of the many laksas I ate on this trip. After eating my way from Singapore through Sarawak to Penang, my preference leans towards the richer, coconut and curry-styles.
Thankfully, the char kway teow with duck egg and the oyster pancake more than made up for it. It was a reminder of why hawker food is one of my favourite ways to eat. When one dish doesn’t land, another almost always does.
That evening began at Backdoor Bodega, my most anticipated cocktail stop in Penang. Recently recognized on the World’s 50 Best list for Best Cocktail Menu, it lived up to expectations.
The cocktails were excellent, but the menu stood out most. It was less a list of drinks than a guide to local ingredients, neighbourhoods, and inspiration. It sparked conversation with the bartenders and encouraged lingering, which we happily did.
Eventually, we turned our attention to dinner. On the bartenders’ recommendation, we headed to New Lane Hawker Centre, only to find most stalls closed due to the rain.
Instead, we pivoted to Old Green House Kopitiam for bak kut teh and prawn mee. Both were deeply savoury, comforting, and exactly what the night called for.
The next morning began quietly at Tan Jetty before leading us to Sri Weld Food Court. Knowing we had a heavier lunch planned, we kept things light.
I had returned for the nasi lemak parcels wrapped in banana leaf, one of my favourite bites from my last visit. Fragrant rice, punchy sambal, and crunchy dried anchovies made it just as satisfying as I remembered. My friend ordered cheung fun slicked with dark soy, and I added a peanut pancake for good measure.
After breakfast, we wandered George Town. Much of it felt unchanged, which was grounding.
Curious to experience Penang beyond its streets, I booked lunch at Gēn. While the care and technique were evident, we were the only diners, and the quiet atmosphere carried through to the meal. It left me wishing I’d spent that time eating casually on the streets. Still, tasting a place from every angle, even when it doesn’t fully land, sharpens your sense of what a city does best.
That evening, we returned to Penang’s cocktail scene at Good Friends Club. It happened to be Halloween, and while the city doesn’t celebrate, the staff were in costume, adding a playful warmth. True to its name, the bar was friendly and relaxed.
The bar makes good to their “Good Friends” theme by greeting guests on entry with an enthusiastic “Hello” which added to their casual and friendly vibe.
Like several of the best bars we visited in Penang, the cocktails here drew directly from local markets and flavours, grounding the creativity in a strong sense of place.
Stepping outside, we realized we were once again near New Lane Hawker Centre, this time with more stalls open. I was finally able to cross curry mee off my Penang-must list. The bowl was rich and coconut-forward. I ordered alongside a plate of lor bak: crisp, spiced pork rolls wrapped in beancurd skin. It was exactly the kind of late-night eating Penang does best.
The following morning began with roti canai at Heritage Transfer Road Roti Canai. While it didn’t quite live up to my memory, the flaky roti, fried egg, and warm curry still made for a solid breakfast.
Plans to visit Penang Hill and Kek Lok Si Temple were thwarted by fog and renovations. It was a reminder that when traveling, even with the best plans, not everything will land perfectly.
Thankfully, lunch more than made up for it. We were invited by locals to a Peranakan meal at Flower Mulan Nyonya Cafe. I was in Malaysia for a dragon boat race in Sarawak, and when some of the organizers, who were from Penang, heard we’d be passing through, they insisted we join them. It was an invitation I never hesitate to accept.
Penang Nyonya (Peranakan) is a family-style meal traditionally cooked at home and shared around the table. It’s a meal built around contrast and abundance. Soups, rich braises, vegetables and rice were all contrasting in flavour and textures. The ultimate comfort meal.
In true Malaysian fashion, the hospitality didn’t end with the meal. Our hosts guided us through the Chowrasta market afterward, pointing out ingredients and stalls with the ease and familiarity. It’s the type of impromptu adventure I’d find myself in Oaxaca, so it felt perfect to be doing the same in Penang.
We ended the afternoon with chendol, a shaved-ice dessert layered with coconut milk, palm sugar, and pandan jelly. This is something I never would have stopped to order on my own, but was genuinely happy to be introduced to. It was light, and perfectly cooling for the weather. This was the kind of experience that resonates, not because I sought it out, but because someone took the time to share it.
Our final night began at Cocktails & Shots, a hidden bar with an unfortunate name and excellent drinks.
We followed this with The Suckling Pig, a bar repeatedly recommended by bartenders around the city as one worth seeking out. Opened by Adrian Shi Yau, an alum of Jigger & Pony, it came with strong credentials. The space itself was intimate and thoughtfully designed, though noticeably quiet when we visited. In this case it worked in our favour. With few other guests, the bartender had time to engage, walk us through the menu, and chat about the cocktail scene through Singapore through Malaysia and the world beyond.
While the cocktails were excellently made, the menu leaned less heavily on Penang’s local ingredients than some of the other bars we’d visited, making it feel more globally polished than place-specific.
From there, we walked over to McNair Street Hawker Centre for more char kway teow and oyster pancake. It was busy enough that finding seats wasn’t an option, but hawker food travels surprisingly well, and this was no exception. Taken to go, the char kway teow still delivered that familiar wok-hei and savory umami-ness. The oyster pancake was just as satisfying and proof that in Penang, great street food doesn’t lose its magic simply because you’re eating it standing up or on the move.
Before leaving Penang, I squeezed in one last meal at Kheng Pin Cafe, a neighbourhood kopitiam just around the corner from where I was staying. I went in with the intention of ordering their well-known lor bak, but temptation won out and I added one final plate of char kway teow. It felt like a fitting send-off last taste.
I came intending to explore more widely, yet kept returning to familiar comforts. With limited time and rainy days that encouraged warmth and routine, it was hard to resist the classics Penang does sowell. And that’s where the comparison to Oaxaca still holds. Both cities reward repetition: returning to the same dishes doesn’t dull the experience, it deepens it.
Leaving Penang, I realized that while it hasn’t evolved in the same way as Oaxaca, that’s not a shortcoming. As in 2017, Penang remains unapologetically food-focused. It’s a city where eating is woven into daily life rather than curated for visitors. And once again, I felt like I’d only scratched the surface. But Penang isn’t a city to cross off the list, it’s one where repetition is rewarded. And for that reason, I know I’ll be back.
The places I mentioned in this post:
- Kool Kongsi Music Bar
- Thara
- Muntri Grove Hotel
- Penang Road Famous Laksa
- Backdoor Bodega
- Old Green House Kopitiam
- Sri Weld Food Court
- Gēn
- Good Friends Club
- New Lane Hawker Centre
- Heritage Transfer Road Roti Canai
- Flower Mulan Nyonya Cafe
- Cocktails & Shots
- The Suckling Pig
- McNair Street Hawker Centre
- Kheng Pin Cafe
Call Me a Food Lover... 